Should i preload cycle assist

First, push down on the rear end about 25mm 1" and let it extend very slowly. Where it stops, measure the distance between the axle and the mark on chassis again. If there were no drag in the linkage the bike would come up a little further. It's important that you do not bounce!

This measurement is L2. Step 3: Have your assistant lift up on the rear of the bike about 25mm and let it down very slowly. Where it stops, measure it. If there were no drag it would drop a little further. Remember, don't bounce! This measurement it L3. Step 4 : The spring sag is in the middle of these two measurements. In fact, if there were no drag in the linkage, L2 and L3 would be the same.

Step 5: Adjust the preload with whatever method applies to your bike. Spring collars are common, and some benefit from the use of special tools. In a pinch you can use a blunt chisel to unlock the collars and turn the main adjusting collar. If you have too much sag you need more preload; if you have too little sag you need less preload.

For road race bikes, rear sag is typically 25 to 30mm. Street riders usually use 30 to 35mm. Bikes set up for the track are compromise when ridden on the street. The firmer settings commonly used on the tract are generally not recommended or desirable for road work.

You might notice the Sag Master measuring tool available from Race Tech in the pictures. It's a special tool made to assist you in measuring sag by allowing you to read sag directly without subtracting. It can also be used as a standard tape measure. Measuring front-end sag is very similar to the rear. However, it' much more critical to take seal drag into account on the front end because it is more pronounced. FRONT END Step 1 : Extend the fork completely and measure from the wiper the dust seal atop the slider to the bottom of the triple clamp or lower fork casting on inverted forks; Figure 2.

Step 2 : Take the bike off the sidestand, and put the rider on board in riding position. Get and assistant to balance the bike from the rear, then push down on the front end and let it extend very slowly.

Where it stops, measure the distance between the wiper and the bottom of the triple clamp again. Do not bounce. Step 3 : Lift up on the front end and let it drop very slowly. Where it stops, measure again. Don't bounce. This measurement is L3. Once again, L2 and L3 are different due to stiction or drag in the seals and bushings, which is particularly high for telescopic front ends. Step 4 : Just as with the front, halfway between L2 and L3 is where the sag would be with no drag or stiction.

Step 5 : To adjust sag use the preload adjusters, if available, or vary the length of the preload spaces inside the fork. NursingCenter Blog. Continuing Education More. Preload and Afterload — What's the Difference?

Share this on. A recent Quick Quiz on our Facebook page resulted in a mix of responses. Do you know what word is used to describe the amount of stretch on the myocardium at the end of diastole? The responses were split between preload and afterload. Tags :. Log in to leave a comment Login or Register. Arnold Sibanda Quite informative and good for sharpening critical thinking skills!

Anita This was very helpful, thank you. I really like it! Paige Thank you! This helped a lot!